Helping the TYT MD380 charger go green.
Ludo | 6 octobre 2017If you came here hoping to charge your MD380 faster, you just fell into a trap! By the way, you can still read the few following lines as this may still interest you . |
If you came here hoping to charge your MD380 faster, you just fell into a trap! By the way, you can still read the few following lines as this may still interest you . |
In this episode of Aliexpress’s bargains, I’ll write a few words about what’s sold as a Nagoya UT-108UV. I don’t delude myself, what I bought is certainly just a bad copy of a terrible clone, but whatever… The first thing I did after opening the bubble wrap package was to unbend the nicely curved antenna, then plug it to the VNA and see how horrible it could be, and I can’t say I’ve been deceived by what I saw… |
If you ever wondered what’s inside a GP430LB or how wide is this antenna’s bandwidth, you’ve come to the right place. |
This short article describes how I shortened my X50N in order to get a better reception on 446MHz.
This antenna was bought from Wimo’s website, so I’ll consider it as an genuine antenna from Diamond (not one of its numerous and probably bad clones). |
If you know a little bit about electronics, you probably already seen TVS diodes. If not, these are Transient Voltage Suppressor diodes, placed in parallel as close as possible to the power supply input of the device, which basically sacrifice themselves by going short circuit when the applied voltage exceeds their rated breakdown voltage. Their response time is fast enough to protect the remaining electronics from damage. That’s the good part of the story. Unfortunately, some electronic board designers don’t seem to care about what happens just after that… |
This lab PSU is also sold by Velleman, under the same product name. I own it since almost 8 years and I never had to complain about it, aside from its voltage drift that forces to regularly adjust the voltage output. Therefore I had no reason to doubt about it when I needed a 12V power supply for powering the IP cameras I quickly installed, before going to a 2 weeks holidays off the house. Well… what happened next proved me wrong! |
N’étant pas certain que cet appareil ait été vendu ailleurs qu’en France, du moins sous la même marque & référence, je vais vous épargner un billet en anglais approximatif 🙂
Ce système de vidéosurveillance acheté relativement cher il y a quelques années chez Castorama a quelques points faibles, notamment l’accès à distance par une interface web utilisant des ActiveX douteux nécessitant la levée de nombreuses sécurités sur Internet Explorer. De plus, il est obligatoire d’utiliser Internet Explorer 6, qui n’est plus installable sur des ordinateurs récents, ce qui nécessite l’installation d’une machine virtuelle sous Windows XP. Bien entendu, il ne faut pas compter sur un éventuel accès via votre smartphone. De toutes façons, ce n’était pas encore très répandu à l’époque à laquelle ce produit était commercialisé. Ce problème ne sera absolument pas traité dans ce billet, puisque les sources de l’applicatif embarqué ne sont évidemment pas disponibles. Un autre « défaut » de cet appareil pour les particuliers, c’est le fonctionnement constant du rétro éclairage de l’écran: cela consomme de l’énergie, ça émet de la lumière inutilement, et ça réduit considérablement le temps de vie du circuit d’alimentation du rétro éclairage, comparé au temps passé à surveiller ce qui est affiché. Pour une utilisation professionnelle, dans un poste de sécurité par exemple, cela ne pose pas de problème. La modification proposée consiste à dévier le signal de commande du rétro éclairage, afin de permettre une mise en veille manuelle à l’aide d’une interrupteur. |
This entry follows an older one I posted almost eight years ago here (link).
Although I tried to make it really clear, I realize that it is not the case, even to me.
I’ve been contacted recently by someone who visited that other website and who was facing the same frustrating issue with his WAP54G. The device was totally bricked, as well as his two WARE54G. Sometimes you can strap pins, sometimes you can access the shell and enter the magic commands, and sometimes (should I say most of the time) you can just hate yourself for having done something wrong. Hopefully, such mistakes can be easily fixed as long as you have the appropriate tools. To do so, you’ll need:
The universal programmer is certainly the missing device on your workshop but you might have access to one at the university, at work or at your local electronics shop. You can e-mail me in last resort but you should check the shipping costs to/from France first because it might be more costly than a new device. 05/01/2015: The whole detailed procedure for desoldering & soldering the chip is now available ->HERE<-. . |
Christmas is not too far away from now and Santa Claus already brought me a gift: a nice faulty electronic toy 🙂 http://dl.shibby.fr/blog.shibby.fr/Toy_repair/JojoPotDeColleRemoteControlProtocol.pdf |
I just couldn’t stay with so many questions and so few answers, so come check back the protocol descritpion in the next few weeks 😉
I’ve made a scan of the RC-20 Instruction manual, since it’s not available anywhere else, maybe it will be useful to someone. |